Jeju · 2 days

Jeju in 2 days

Day one stays in Jeju City near the airport; day two heads to Seogwipo on the south coast. A rental car makes the second day easy.

Day 1 Jeju City

BreakfastUjin HaejanggukBracken hangover soup · Jeju City · Samdo 2-dong06:00–22:00₩11,000 per person
Order the gosari haejangguk — a thick pork-bone broth loaded with bracken fern that's distinct to Jeju — and a bindaetteok to share.
LunchJamae GuksuPork noodle soup · Jeju City · near the airport09:00–18:00 · Closed Wednesdays₩10,000 per person
Order the standard gogi-guksu and, if two or more are sharing, add a small plate of sliced boiled pork.
DinnerDonsadon · Main StoreBlack pork barbecue · Jeju12:00–22:00 · Closed Tuesdays₩40,000 per person
Order the Jeju black pork geun-gogi, sold by the 600g block for two and grilled for you at the table over charcoal until the fat turns glassy. Dip it in the anchovy-based melchijeot sauce that comes with it, and finish with the small kimchi stew.

BreakfastMyeongjin JeonbokAbalone rice & porridge · Gujwa · Northeast coast09:30–20:30 · Closed Tuesdays₩16,000 per person
Order the jeonbok dolsotbap, abalone and its roe cooked into rice in a stone pot - scrape the crust from the bottom and pour in the hot water they give you for a second course. The abalone porridge is the gentler option if you would rather have something soothing.
LunchOllae GuksuPork noodle soup · Jeju City08:30–15:00 · Closed Sundays₩11,000 per person
Order the gogi-guksu - it is the only dish on the menu, medium-thick wheat noodles in a deep pork-bone broth under slices of tender pork. Come before mid-afternoon, since the kitchen closes at 3pm and the queue builds through lunch.
TakeawayOneunjeong GimbapSeaweed rice rolls · Seogwipo09:00–19:00 · Closed Sundays₩6,000 per person
Order the house oneunjeong gimbap, whose fried, lightly sweet egg and seasoned rice have made it the island's most sought-after takeaway roll. It is phone-order and takeout only, with a two-roll minimum, so call ahead and collect within 30 minutes of your slot - and note there is nowhere to sit inside.
DinnerDombedonBlack pork barbecue · Jeju City · Dongmun Market area11:00–23:00₩35,000 per person
Order the heuk-ogyeop, Jeju black pork belly cut thick and grilled for you at the table by the staff, with the anchovy dipping sauce alongside. Finish with the fried rice made in the same pan, the way most tables here do.