Busan in 2 days

Get the naengchae jokbal — cold, mustard-dressed trotters — rather than the plain warm version, and pair it with a bowl of doenjang-jjigae.

Order the Dongnae pajeon, a soft, custardy pancake of whole uncut spring onions layered with seafood and bound with just enough batter - not the crisp version served elsewhere. It is made to be shared with the house dongdongju rice wine, and the small size is plenty for two.

Order the dwaeji-gukbap, Busan's milky pork-bone soup with rice and sliced pork, and season it at the table with the shrimp sauce and chive salad they bring you. If you are hungry, the suyuk baekban gives you a plate of boiled pork belly with the soup on the side.

Start with the clear silver-puffer soup — a light, savory broth meant to settle the stomach — and squeeze in the citron-chili paste at the table to taste.

Order the mulmilmyeon, the chewy sweet-potato-and-wheat noodles in an icy, slightly sweet beef-and-herb broth that Busan invented as its own answer to naengmyeon. Add a plate of the steamed mandu to share, and stir in the mustard and vinegar on the table a little at a time until the broth tastes bright rather than sharp.

Order the saeng galbi, unmarinated hanwoo short rib hand-cut into a diamond pattern, if you want to taste the beef itself; the 48-hour marinated yangnyeom galbi is the sweeter, more familiar choice. Whatever you pick, add the potato noodles at the end - they cook in the meat drippings and are the thing regulars come back for.