Beodeunamujip

Editor’s overview

An eel house on the Hanam side of the Han River near Paldang, east of Seoul. Charcoal-grilled eel arrives on a hot cast-iron plate; a whole free-range chicken soup with chives follows. The sign lists 1++ eel, tojong baeksuk and 100% buckwheat noodles. Private rooms, a gravel car park and a river view at sunset.

Two things an operator notices. First, the banchan were clean — small portions, freshly dressed, no tired leftovers refilled from the day before. Second, the room plan: proper private rooms, a gravel car park in front and a river view at sunset with willows (beodeunamu, the restaurant's name) in the frame. That combination is what a family drive-out restaurant outside Seoul lives on: weekend groups who arrive by car, sit in a room and stay for two courses.

Red charcoal, ridged eel on black iron, a whole chicken under green chives, brass bowls, and a willow over the river at dusk.

Menu and ordering

Charcoal-grilled eel (jangeo-gui), brought to the table on a hot cast-iron plate over a wooden board, cut with scissors and eaten in short pieces; the sign advertises 1++ grade. Then tojong baeksuk, a whole free-range chicken simmered in a clear broth, finished at the table with a heap of chives. Around ten small side dishes in brass bowls.

The editor paid in full but did not photograph the bill or the menu board, so no prices are listed. Ask for the eel price per portion when you sit down — eel is sold by weight or by the fish in most Korean eel houses.

Before you go

Come by car and before sunset if you want the river light. Order the eel first and let the chicken soup follow — the soup is a whole bird and takes time. If you don't drive, this is a taxi or a friend-with-a-car destination; there is no station within walking distance.